Offal and secondary cuts like flank and skirt are often overlooked in Australia, but butcher Darren O’Rourke sees real opportunity in reframing them for modern customers.
A chef by trade, Darren has spent 25 years working in kitchens and butcheries, including close to a decade at The Bathers’ Pavilion under Serge Dansereau. He then moved to Victor Churchill when it opened its doors in 2009, ultimately rising to Head Butcher. Today he is Brand Ambassador at Endeavour Meats, where he champions the idea that butchers with a curiosity for cooking will always have an edge.
Why they’re overlooked
Darren thinks many Australians have been ‘spoiled’ by easy access to premium loin cuts. Unlike cultures shaped by hardship, in recent decades we haven’t had to value the whole animal. As a result, cuts such as tripe, tongue, liver and kidneys – once staples for our parents and grandparents – have slipped off the weekly menu. So, on the increasingly rare occasions when customers spot them in a display, they often hesitate.
“Unless you were brought up with it, your eyes aren’t going to send that message to your brain saying, ‘Wow, that looks good, I want to try that!’” Darren says.
Flavour and texture
The challenge is one of perception, not quality. Offal delivers unique eating experiences that chefs prize.
- Sweetbreads are delicate and rich, “a cross between a chicken nugget and a toasted marshmallow,” Darren says.
- Tripe brings a chewy, calamari-like texture that is prized in Asian cuisines, or slow-cooked French or Italian classics when paired with tomato and carrot.
- Tongue rivals corned beef in flavour and tenderness, yet many customers don’t realise the similarity.
Flank, skirt and hanger steak offer another set of opportunities. Two of the skirts, known in France as bavette (meaning ‘bib’) and onglet (hanger), are prized cuts. Anthony Bourdain once praised onglet as the ultimate steak-frites cut. Both are packed with flavour and cook beautifully on the BBQ.
How to make it work
So how do you turn scepticism into sales? Darren suggests:
- Think like a chef. Restaurants have been proudly showcasing these cuts on their menus for some time now. Recommend to your customers that they treat these cuts like steaks and they will be surprised by the results.
- Sell meals, not cuts. Package tripe strips with root vegetables ready to braise and a recipe idea. Match kidneys with a classic devilled sauce recipe. Position tongue next to corned beef to highlight the similarity.
- Call out global flavours. French, Italian, Asian and Middle Eastern cuisines all showcase offal. Use those associations to reassure customers and spark curiosity.
- Be realistic about display. Offal won’t hold its appearance in a window. Consider pre-prepared packs or frozen options for easy take-home.
Nose-to-tail cooking
Nose-to-tail cooking trends are driving renewed interest in offal and lesser-known cuts, and customers inspired by food media and foodie culture are looking for authenticity and value. That puts you in the perfect position to highlight the potential of these products. By combining product knowledge with a few simple preparation ideas, you can turn ‘hard-to-shift’ items into dishes that more customers are open to exploring.
Offal, flanks and skirts don’t have to be relics of the past. With thoughtful positioning, global inspiration and ready-to-cook options, butchers can give customers a taste of something different and, in the process, sell more of the whole animal.